Graffiti Removal and Restoration

Graffiti Removal & Restoration

 

When providing training on preparing properties for physical inspections, I always spend a little time talking about graffiti removal. I have recently received a number of email requests from clients for suggestions on how to remove graffiti from sites. In this article, I want to discuss some of the best ways to rapidly remove graffiti from sites and some ways to make it harder to mark up properties with graffiti.

 

Many graffiti removal and restoration efforts can leave surfaces looking as bad, if not worse, then before the work began. To ensure successful removal and protect surfaces from graffiti is a three-step process: (1) Identify the surface type and substance to be removed; (2) select the appropriate removal method; and (3) apply a protective coating. Also, some cities have established removal and restoration guidelines for historic buildings; be sure to know the local guidelines.

 

Identify the Surface Type and Substance to be Removed

 

Almost any surface can be defaced with graffiti – brick, stone, concrete, aluminum or vinyl siding, pavement, wood, and glass are examples. Surfaces can be smooth or textured, painted or unprotected.

Most graffiti is applied with spray paint. However, vandals also use markers, stickers, shoe polish, lipstick, stencils and etching products. The longer graffiti remains on a surface, the harder it is to remove, so quick action is critical.

 

The method of removal depends both on the surface type and the substance to be removed.

 

Select a Removal Method

 

Except for paint, most anti-graffiti removers are not available at local home improvement stores. These are specialty industrial products and are often sold in bulk to cites, counties, or graffiti removal companies.

 

Graffiti removal products that are sold in retail outlets are generally good only for small clean up tasks. Fortunately, most apartment graffiti falls into this category.

 

There are three common removal methods:

 

  1. Paint-out: this method is good for covering graffiti on smooth, painted surfaces. It is relatively low-cost and represents a safer option than some of the chemical removers.

 

  1. Chemical Removers: the stronger the solvent, the faster it will dissolve or remove the paint. Some of the stronger solvents require personal protection. If a solvent or cleaner is poorly matched to a particular surface, the aesthetic results may be unappealing. Use of a professional graffiti removal company is often recommended when solvents are involved.

For small jobs, such as removing spray paint and markers from light poles and utility boxes, a chemical removal product with cloth or scrubber will often be adequate (Easy-Off Oven Cleaner can work well).

 

  1. Pressure Washing: pressure washing with a water/solvent combination (sometimes baking soda) may be used to remove graffiti. If used extensively, pressure washing can wear down surfaces.

 

Apply a Protective Coating

 

There are two types of protective coatings – temporary and permanent.

 

Temporary coatings are protective, but come off when graffiti is removed and must be reapplied. Permanent coatings are not affected by the removal process.

 

Most coatings are not available at local retailers. Some paint products have properties similar to anti-graffiti coatings, but that is not their primary use and they will not be marketed in that way.

 

Following are suggestions on how to remove graffiti from some of the more common surfaces found at apartment communities:

 

*Aluminum Siding: Paint remover (sparingly), followed by a water rinse;

 

*Glass: use a razor blade to scrape off; paint thinner may also be used;

 

*Masonry (brick, marble, stone, concrete, etc.): Low-pressure power washing; sand or soda blasting [may create a shadow]; paint remover or chemical solvent with brush, followed by a water rinse and painting;

 

*Metal: Paint thinner or chemical graffiti remover; power wash; paint-over;

 

*Pavement: Chemical remover and power washing; soda blasting;

 

*Vinyl Siding: sparing use of chemical solvents (they may remove the vinyl coating); if painting, use primer first; and

 

*Wood: if wood is painted and unweathered, try mineral spirits. Also, low-pressure power washing, sanding or repainting.

 

If there is graffiti on historic masonry or other valuable structures or etching on glass, I strongly recommend using the services of a professional.

 

In summary, the key to successful graffiti removal is fast action, an understanding of the surface to be cleaned, and knowledge of the various cleaning methods.

Menu